A sad day for Liège.

Yes, Liège made the world news this past Tuesday the 13th when someone decided to take a gun and to randomly spray fire into the crowds of people in Place St. Lambert, one of our most frequented public squares this time of year.

We wish it were for a happier reason that the worlds attention was drawn here, but sadly it wasn't.

People here are understandably shaken.  To the memory of the Liègois, this kind of crime has never happened here before.

We would like to express our sincere condolences to the families of those killed in Place St. Lambert, and to the families of those who are suffering injuries as a result of this horrible happening.  We like many Liègois and Belgians share your grief.

Breakfast at Hema... One serious bargain!

Can I tell you something?  Tchantches and I are guilty of snobbery.

We have often walked by this sign, just outside of Hema, (a quirky and democratically priced store of Dutch origin,) located in the Galleries St. Lambert.

Between 9am (when they open) and 10am, the breakfast pictured above is 1 Euro in the Hema café.

We chuckled to ourselves, saying it must be a marvelous job in food photography, to show something that looked that good when the reality was probably something rather different.  We giggled because normally even just a coffee by itself (let alone a freshly ground rainforest-alliance-certified one) will run you between 1.50 and 2 euro here in Liège.  We asked ourselves if the whole breakfast might not be incredibly tiny in size...

The other day we found ourselves in the Place St. Lambert, and it was before 10am.  As we were in the right place at the right time, (and empty-bellied to boot,) we finally allowed our curiosity to overcome our snobbery.  In we went, walking to the bistro-buffet/café situated in the rear of the store.  We had to know: How good could a complete breakfast for just 1 measly euro be?

Pretty darn good, actually.  See for yourself just below here how the real thing measures up to the advertising.

Seriously.  I gave the cashier just one Euro and walked away with this.

Croissant: One pretty standard croissant for size, taste and texture.  Baguette: between a quarter and a fifth of a baguette size, which is normal.  The bacon in the sandwich is a proper full sized slice.  The omelette was fluffy and somewhere between 1 and 2 eggs worth (we both agree it's closer to 2.)  The coffee was good, though not the best that can be had in Liège, and the added blessing here for both of our sleepy heads was that it wasn't a small coffee.  I was delighted to actually receive more than what is pictured on the sign outside the store, because everyone could take a speculoos cookie to go along with their coffee at no additional charge that day.

Jams (strawberry and apricot) were the choices available for fruit-spreads and we spotted a rarer option in these parts, (peanut butter,) in an adjacent basket.  The strawberry jam wasn't fabulous, so next time I believe I'll be reaching for the peanut butter, and Tchantches will likely test-drive the apricot.  In any case, the croissant and sandwich were good enough that I had no real use for my packet of jam, but the option is always nice.

Language is not really an issue here, as the café functions in a buffet format: you take a tray, plate and utensils, and select your croissant and omelette sandwich yourself from the buffet-cases and baskets.  Just beware that if you want to take advantage of this deal, you need to take it exactly as it is. Tchantches added a chocolate croissant to his tray, and paid €1.25 extra for it.

You can bet with an unbeatable deal like this that we'll be going back when next the stars align and we find ourselves hungry and near the Place St. Lambert before 10am.

EDIT ***We have since been back to Hema, though this time it was much closer to 10.  I tried the peanut butter, and it was disappointingly off the mark as most peanut butters in Belgium seem to be.  The apricot jam is better than the strawberry according to Tchantches, but it's not great either, so there you have it.  On the second visit, there were no cookies by the register to go with the coffee, and our sandwiches were a little less fresh.  We figure this was because it was almost 10am when we showed up, and perhaps they'd been sitting in the buffet for almost an hour at that point.  Lessons learned?  If you want the very best of this deal, we'd say try to be there closer to their opening at 9.

The Hema in the Galleries St. Lambert is open from Monday - Saturday, 9am to 6:30pm.

Le Perron

The Perron is a piece of living history in Liège, situated in the Place du Marché.  But what exactly is it?

This pillar originally served as a symbol of the prince-bishop of Liège, and its image has been found on money used in the region, dated as early as the 12th Century.  In the 15th Century the Perron was placed on Lièges coat-of-arms, and the image of it has stayed there to this day.

Coin dated to the 16th Century featuring The Perron prominently

City of Liège coat of arms

To the Liègeois, The Perron represented justice.  Liège lived under a communal charter, established under the prince-bishop, and the site of The Perron was used as a place where declarations were made to and concerning the public including judicial rulings and the dispensation of justice, along with changes or amendments to the law.  No law could be put into effect without being read aloud in front of The Perron.

In 1468 Liège was seized by Charles Le Téméraire (Charles The Bold.)  Upon seizure of the city, the new ruler had the Perron removed.  This gesture matched the imposition of harsher rule over the people of Liège.  Charles Le Téméraire wanted to destroy the Liègeois' previously held notions of justice and public liberties.  To make this perfectly clear to the people of Liège Charles left them a message.  After removing the Perron and transporting it to Bruges where it served as a trophy, words to this effect were inscribed on the base where the Perron once stood:

"Don't look anymore to the sky,
By my fall, learn that nothing lasts forever.
A symbol of courage and glory at one time
I protected a people invincible to war.
I tell you today I was mistaken, I am a cheap toy
which Charles has taken and broken!"


Fortunately for the people of Liège, Charles The Bold died 9 years later, and the person who took his place (The prince-bishop Louis de Bourbon,) had better relations with the people of Liège.  He made use of his connections in Bruges and in July of 1478 after 10 years of absence the Perron was returned to Liège to much fanfare.

Scene depicting the re-erection of The Perron, artist unknown

A new inscription (this time in Latin,) was made when The Perron was re-erected.  This time the words acknowledged the taking of the Perron and its exile:

"The Perron, seen by Liège with pride as a sacred emblem of the fatherland, was replaced on this pedestal the 10 July 1478.  Liège where the arts live, Liège the new Athens, Charles had ruined you and covered you with chains!  Far from you, exiled by his order to Bruges, where I stayed ten years overpowered with insults.  But these times of bitter servitude have passed: Here I am again against your breast, oh my mother."

This "putting right" of the wrong that was committed has only added to the historic value given by the Liègois to the Perron, a symbol representing justice and fairness, values the Liègois hold dear.

Breakfast at Le Matin Liègois

Tchantchès and I enjoy a breakfast out now and then.  We'd heard about "Le Matin Liègois" and decided to check them out.  Before going we agreed to put them to the English-test (meaning we'd speak English while there to see how those without French-language skills might be served,) and away we went.

It would be fairly easy to miss this place from the outside, given the low-key sign.

A flashy sign isn't necessary for business here, though.  Le Matin Liègois is known to locals who stop by for breakfast, to pick up bread or a freshly-made sandwich for their day, or who might settle in at some point in the day for a pastry with coffee or tea.

Situated in La Place du Marché, (which is an elgongation off the Place St. Lambert,) it is an easy walk from most places in the centre of Liège.

 Place St. Lambert

 Place du Marché

Le Matin Liègois is a few buildings further walking in this direction, on this side of the street.

A friendly woman behind the counter greeted us, and when asked, answered that yes she was able to speak English.  When we arrived the downstairs was rather busy and so we asked if we could sit upstairs to take breakfast.  We were given a cheerful yes and made our way up a wooden spiral staircase at the back, discovering a quaint and quiet space upstairs with red walls and coloured glass windows.

Menus were already placed at most tables and as we settled down our waiter joined us.  We asked and found that he did not speak English, but he indicated that if we showed him what we wanted on the menu he should be able to help us.  As we hadn't looked over the menu just yet, Tchantchès asked for a coffee (€1.70) and I asked about teas.  I was brought a tea-menu, which showed the restaurant carries a variety of Lipton teas and infusions.  As I'm not partial to the brand, I asked for a cappuccino (€2.00) to everyones confusion I think, but mine.

One note about cappuccinos here: I have yet to find one that comes with steamed milk atop.

Ordering a cappuccino in Liège will often result in the receipt of something like this:

(an espresso topped with sweetened whipped cream and cinnamon.)

Tchantchès pointed to the "complet" (€8.00), which is a breakfast consisting of a regular croissant, a chocolate croissant, a white-bread roll, slices of cheese (a middle-of-the-road gouda in this case,) butter, a selection of spreads including honey, jam, nutella, and sirop de Liège, a soft-boiled egg and an accompanying coffee or tea.

I pointed to the "2 oeufs sur le plat" breakfast combination (€5.00), which includes 2 sunny-side-up eggs, buttered bread, and a coffee or tea.  At least it should have.  When our waiter brought our meals, he presented Tchantchès with his plates and coffee, and then placed one tiny plate in front of me.  A single sunny-side-up egg.

I apologized and explained to the waiter that my breakfast was supposed to have 2 eggs, and pointed again to my desired meal on the menu.  He apologized explaining in French that his colleague had misunderstood that I'd wanted just one egg, and said he'd get right to fixing it.  Another egg was quickly brought to me, and at this point I had to try again and explain that I'd really wanted the full meal pointing to the bread and coffee in the meal description.

Fortunately another couple were eating upstairs with us and when I said "toast" one of them tossed a "pain grillé" to the waiter, at which point he realized I was still missing part of my meal.  I never did get my bread, but Tchantchès had actually been given an extra roll along with his soft-boiled egg, so he gave it to me and we called it even after the waiter returned with my coffee.

Overall we felt the quality of the food was good, but not outstanding.  Tchantchès has a taste for fine pastries and thought the croissants weren't bad, but were also nothing special.  The bread roll was reasonably fresh, though rather tasteless.  My eggs were correctly cooked and well seasoned, tasting lightly of butter, salt and pepper, though Tchantchès' soft-boiled egg was bizarrely overcooked in one part while being completely undercooked with a transparent white in another part.  We noted as well that the spreads provided with his breakfast were likely placed in their pots the night before or possibly even earlier, judging by the skin that had developed on the (normally semi-fluid) sirop de Liège.

Part of Tchantchès' breakfast.  (Hungry bugger had already eaten his croissant and soft-boiled egg before I'd gotten my camera out!)

Despite the wrinkle in service, everyone was unfalteringly friendly, tried their best to get things right even with the language difference, and service was fairly quick.  The woman minding the counter downstairs seemed eager to practice her English as she rang us up, making small talk with us and wishing us a good stay in Liège on our way out.

Le Matin Liègois

Place du Marché, #20

Open 7am - 6pm Monday - Saturday, 9am - 12pm Sunday.

Artefum

We passed by Artefum the other day, and felt it only right to mention them here.  Yes, Artefum is rather unimpressive on the outside...

They receive mention here, however, because this little shop, (located at #1 Place St. Lambert,) carries Liège-specific souvenirs, such as shot-glasses, scarves, postcards and even Tchantchès and Nanesse dolls.  As well, there is a selection of "Belgium" souvenirs and the typical "Brussels" and Mannekin Pis paraphernalia.  They manage to pack a lot into a little space.

Being a "Tabac", Artefum also carries a variety of tobacco products, as well as gum and candies, magazines and newspapers.

Next time we pass by, we'll try to get the store-hours to put here.