Mamma Mia, that's some outstanding pizza!

Liège has no shortage of pizza on offer, it must be said.  There are some bad pizzas, a lot of passable pizzas, some pretty good pizzas, and then there's this place.  Il Pomodoro Romano.

It must also be said that Tchantches and I are well travelled, and are fans of pizza.  We have eaten so very many pizzas, in so very many places around the world (including several places in Italy.)  We are rarely as impressed as we were the other day when we stumbled across Il Pomodoro Romano, on the pedestrian-only street of Rue St. Paul, not far from the Place des Carmes.

We were walking toward our planned dinner destination when I stopped abruptly outside this place, looking inside.  At first sight, Tchantches was skeptical, looking at the brightly lit red and white interior of the lower level.  It looked kind of like what the Liègois call a "snack" (a place where low grade overcooked pastas, pizzas, kebabs, or sandwiches are eaten, generally by students.)

But it wasn't the decor that had caught my eye as we'd walked by...  it was the sight of the pizzas that had stopped me dead in my tracks.  They looked very much more traditionally Italian than any others I have seen in the Liège region (this is saying a lot given that Liège has a large number of Italian restaurant owners.)

Not the least bit shy I walked right in and stuck my face close to the glass shielding the pizzas from the public, eyeing them closely.  Tchantches followed me in and looked around awkwardly, asking the woman behind the counter if the shop had been open long.  The woman explained they had opened in August, but added that the 2nd floor had opened in Mid-October.  She explained briefly the concept of the shop, which is that you can buy pizza by the slice (the pizzas on the counter are traditionally prepared oblong pizzas, much like I had seen already in Rome,) or they'll make you a round one to-order either for takeaway or to eat there.  She offered us a free taste of any pizza that caught our eye, and I decided to see if these rather Roman looking pizzas actually tasted like Roman pizzas, choosing the "Margherita."

While heating up a square, the woman explained that she and her husband had decided to take their idea of opening an authentic Italian pizza and pasta place as far as they could, and so they went to a pizzaiolo school in Rome to learn the finer points of pizza.  She explained that the flour used in the doughs are imported from Italy, and all the ingredients used are of European provenance.  I probed further and was happy to hear that the place takes a very hands on approach, making not only their pizza doughs but also their pastas and sauces fresh from scratch onsite.  At this moment in our conversation, the square came out of the oven and was cut into pieces.  Tchantches, still looking skeptical took a piece of it along with me.

It was good.  The crust, the sauce, the fresh basil, and the taste of excellent quality olive oil.  It was so good in fact that I decided to take a chance and spontaneously changed our dinner plans.  I asked if it might be possible to eat on the second level and the woman obliged happily, showing us the way up a small metal staircase, and coming up after us to turn on the lights in the space.

Tchantches admitted once we were alone on the 2nd floor sipping our beers that the sample he'd eaten was good, but he still wondered what exactly I had gotten us into, hijacking our dinner plans.

The 2nd floor decor is sparse, though there are the smallest beginnings of some charming references to the culinary traditions of Italy, with two small olive trees growing near the windows along with a few other touches.  Tchantches, being a guy who likes his "ambiance", looked worried.   I pointed out to him that both of us have had some amazing food in other similarly unassuming places, and even in places that to the eye look like holes in the wall, and he grudgingly agreed.  I suggested that perhaps they were adding to the place as they went along and as the business got going.  We came to the conclusion that either dinner would be a huge bellyflop or that this humble little place might actually live up to the explanation the woman behind the counter had given us.  We decided to put both the pizza and pasta to the test.  Tchantches decided on the canneloni maison, and I on the round pizza with sweet squash and bacon chunks.  Sadly when we passed our orders we discovered that they were not available.  The woman explained that they'd sold out of a few things the day or two before and hadn't yet replenished everything.  Fair enough... it was the 2nd of January, and I imagine a pizza and pasta place located where this one is might get hit pretty hard on New Year's Eve.

In the end Tchantches took the round pizza "Melanzane", asking for the addition of peppers, and I went for the round "Quatro Formaggi".

And they were sooo goooood.  My pizza didn't skimp on the cheese, but didn't have too much as to overwhelm the dough.  Little pops of rosemary perfectly complimented the balance between the 4 cheeses.  Most importantly, I could taste all 4 of the cheeses, the crust and the herbs.  That's not an easy balance to acheive (which was exactly why I'd ordered it.)  Tchantches, who never eats his crusts, was eating them all, and *loved* his pizza.  We exchanged a slice between us and while he was very impressed with mine, his was the revelation for me.

WOW.  It was perfect.  For a moment I was transported back to Italy.  The eggplant slices on his pizza were the thinnest and most flavourful eggplant-anything I've ever had in Liège.  The only other place I've had eggplant (aubergine to some of you,) that tasted that good was on an eggplant parmigiana sandwich from a place far, far from here, that has (with good reason) been in business for more than 50 years.  And the peppers Tchantches had asked for?  The owner had made the clever choice of thinly shaved strips of yellow pepper all over the pizza, and they complimented the pizza so well, like little pops of sunshine both visually and flavour-wise.  This place is most certainly not using the quasi-tasteless produce found in most grocery stores this time of year.  Clearly they are going to the effort (as they lady said,) of sourcing the best they can find at every step.

In fact, there is nothing about this place other than the pizzas in on the counter themselves that offers the immediate indication of how good the food is.  The decor doesn't, and the prices don't either since they're completely in line with what one might expect to pay for a middle-of-the-road pizza in Liège.  A square slice for those in a hurry costs around €2, depending on which variety of pizza you take.  I paid €8.90 for my pizza, and Tchantches paid €10.40 for his.  He went home feeling like he'd eaten too much (he'd eaten his entire pizza, crusts and all,) and I was full after half of mine!  Fortunately there is no trouble here in asking them to box up the rest of your meal, I was happily obliged, and I'm happy to report that even day-old, this pizza still has a delicious crust that hasn't dried out or become ridiculously tough overnight, and is delicious either cold or hot.

 Needless to say we are giddy about our new discovery, and will be going back to try the pasta, the wine, and to sneak a few photos.

While we both heaped praise on the woman (who is actually the co-owner with her husband who wasn't there,) Tchantches did offer the critique that he had made of the mistake of "judging the book by the cover", trying to express to her in his own awkward fashion that he felt maybe with the store-front they have that they wouldn't attract the part of the market that might most appreciate their food and become a loyal customer base (people who will willingly stray from their local pizza place for this level of quality.)  Indeed, it's my concern too.  While it's true that it takes awhile for a new business to find it's footing, develop a loyal base of clientele and so on, it's also true that it's very difficult to be an independent business in Belgium right now.  I'm not sure that the students of Liège will ultimately be what keeps these guys afloat, and I'm not sure that the plain appearance of Il Pomodoro Romano will be what convinces those in search of quality that quickly enough that this is where they can score some authentic Italian flavour.  For now, it is a diamond in the rough.

This said, Il Pomodoro Romano definitely deserves to stick around, and I'm guessing that if they do, it'll be word-of-mouth that does the trick.  Get it while it's hot!

Le Lulay Al Copète

Known not only for its traditional Liègoise cuisine, but also the friendly husband and wife duo who run it, Le Lulay Al Copète is one of the top places to go if you'd like an honest taste of Liège.

Le Lulay Al Copète, seen from outside at night

This small restaurant is very centrally located just off the passage Lemonnier at 11 rue Lulay des Febvres, and inside the atmosphere is Liègois through and through.  Elisabeth and Vincent are welcoming, and fortunately for those who don't speak French, Vincent is more than happy to assist you in English!

Just as the décor references Liège in times more traditional, the food does too.  It's honestly prepared and served in a classic style for the region, meaning that most visitors are positively stuffed after an entrée and a main dish.  Even the salads are quite satisfying, each one containing an ample serving of protein. (Fortunately if you like you can order any salad in a smaller "entrée" size.)

A dish not to be missed: "Boulets à la Liègoise".  This is the "taste of home" for many Liègois.  The secret is in the Sirop de Liège, a regional product that imparts a unique depth and slight sweetness to the sauce.  Naturally, this is a dish that pairs very nicely with "frites mayonnaise" and Belgian beer.

Although many come for the boulets, Le Lulay is no one-trick pony.  Other tastes of Belgium you may wish to try include the pavés.  The beef used for these is of the "Blanc Bleu Belge" race, (one of the most muscular breeds of cattle we've seen, and as the name implies, this is a race developed in Belgium.

The very beefy Blanc Bleu Belge

For those willing to walk on the wilder side of anglophone tastes, Le Lulay also serves "Filet Americain", a melt-in-your mouth deliciously fresh combination of raw steak, ground and mixed with mayonnaise, capers, and raw egg, among other seasonings.  For those worried about eating raw meat: food purity and butchery standards in Belgium are very strict, which is why something like filet american can be prepared in so many restaurants here, with virtually no problems of food related illness.  Consider this "sushi-grade" beef.

One last point both tourists and Liègois can appreciate aside from the authenticity of the food or the warm ambiance of Le Lulay: the value.  The last time we were there, supper for the two of us (2 mains, 4 beer and 1 coffee) totaled less than 30 euro, and we both left feeling so full that we couldn't have eaten another bite!

Elisabeth will sometimes say to those who comment positively at the end of their meal: "We do this on purpose, we make it good so you'll come back!"  This philosophy of service has worked very well for the restaurant over the past 7 years it seems, the business doesn't seem to have suffered at all from the economic downturn and they are regularly busy.  As many locals do go back when they can, it's always a good idea to call ahead to reserve a table (phone: 04 222 0670)

Le Lulay is closed on Sundays, Mondays, as well as Thursday nights.
Click here to visit their website.

Students of Liège: St. Nicholas

Have you recently been approached by someone wearing a lab coat, asking your for money?  Allow us to explain...

Photo credit: ULg

There are several institutions of higher-learning based in Liège.  It is a popular destination for Erasmus students because it is known as a city that embraces students with open arms, meaning even if you don't speak much French as a student arriving here on exchange... you'll probably still be invited to the parties.  Of which there are MANY.

Photo credit: micheldelamotte.be

Every autumn many students attempt to get 'in' to various student 'fraternities'; they can be seen this time of year throughout the city wearing their white lab coats complete with decorations of fresh marker drawings and scrawls.

Photo credit: ULg

These lab coats quickly become not so fresh and white as the students participate in various hazing rituals and parties.  We have been told by more than one old 'fraternity' member that a student is never supposed to wash the lab coat no matter what has happened to it, no matter what has been spilled (or thrown) upon it.

Photo credit: bruxelloise.be

Older citizens of Liège mostly smile and remember their student-days when they catch sight of a group of youngsters involved in one of the many rituals and celebrations, which brings us to the students and St. Nicholas.

Photo credit: ULg

Traditionally December 6th is the day children in Belgium are treated with gifts for the day of St. Nicholas.  Around the beginning of December, the lab coated students can be seen in public places asking for pocket-change.  The change the students collect will be used to help subsidize their last bit of partying party before the end of semester examination period begins, and so this ritual of asking for change is a students way of asking the public to spoil them a little for St. Nicholas, too.

Photo credit: ULg

Tchantches and I have the personal philosophy that if someone is entertaining while remaining friendly and polite, we will give a little change.  If they are particularly witty in their banter or if they are highly entertaining, we give extra.  After all, it's important to know how to ask nicely for what you want in life.  And knowing how to do so with finesse isn't something the schools always teach!

Sláinte! Guinness in Liège

It's true, it is St. Patrick's Day as we're posting this, but we know we can't possibly be the only ones who (no matter the date,) like to know where in a city we might be able to find a good pint of Guinness.

There are several restaurants and pubs in Liège that offer Guinness, but most of them serve it from the can.  If you're looking for Guinness on-tap, here are a few places we've found it:


---The Shamrock - Located at the intersection of Rue St. Gilles and Rue Louvrex (about 5 minute walk from the Pont D'Avroy.)

---The Celtic - After a lengthy closure for renovations, this pub has just re-opened.  Located at 143-145 Blvd. de la Sauvenière (at the Pont D'Avroy.)

---Mad Murphy's - Located at 21Rue St.-Jean-en-Isle (in the Carré.)


Please do let us know if you've found another pub pouring Guinness in Liège, and we'll add the listing here!

Cucinella

Fine Italian fare with a modern influence.  Situated on rue de la Casquette, on the edge of "the Carré", this restaurant is one we love.  Judging by the full room the past few times we've visited, we're guessing the word has spread on Cucinella, and how could it not with food like theirs?

Salads, scallops, tartars, and carpaccios are handled with great skill - we feel it's one of the best places in Liège for these.  The "salade folle" is a delicious showcase for the chefs talent with these items.

Cooked fish and meats are well handled, though occasionally left 20 seconds too long on the grill or in the pan.

We've yet to meet a pasta we don't like here.

Deserts are house-made, and finely executed.  (We try to save a little extra-room for them!)

We've always found the service to be warm and professional - They leave you time to talk and enjoy the meal without needless interruptions, but they never leave you for very long with an empty glass or waiting for your next course.  We know that at least some of the servers are comfortable working in English; we've never seen an anglophone table experience difficulty making their order known nor have we observed a different standard of service for English speakers.

The restaurant's web-site includes a map, contact information, listing of the (prix fixe) menu for the day as well as the full carte for food.  Sadly the wine list and cocktail menus are not presented, and French is the sole language of the site at the moment.  The site is relatively new however, so hopefully these small oversights will be corrected.

The restaurant is a stone's throw from the Hotel Mercure as well as the Crowne Plaza and the Ibis Opera Hotel for those out of towners craving a good meal close to their 'base of operations'.  In any case, if you find yourself on the Boulevard de la Sauveniere craving an excellent meal, this is a safe bet.

Cucinella, Liège.